A mosaic of aromas

Italy without Sicily makes no picture in the soul: only here you find the key to everything.

You cannot praise the climate enough; it is now the rainy season, though sometimes breaking off; today it thunders and lightens, and everything forceful turns green. The flax has partly formed knots, the other part is in blossom. In the hollows one might think to see small basins, so beautifully blue-green lie the flax fields below. The charming things are countless.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey, Volume 1, Palermo,
13 April 1787

by Mathias Guthmann

he moment he arrives in Palermo, the traveller is struck by a Mediterranean city alive with colour, scent, and unceasing movement.
He is immediately drawn into a melting pot of cultures shaped by a long and shifting history.

Once he leaves behind this maze of alleys and squares, small villages carved into the rock, bizarre mountain formations and wide open plains stretch out across the landscape.
Sicily reveals itself as a mysterious little universe waiting to be explored.

Founded by the Phoenicians, the city has seen countless dynasties, rulers and peoples come and go through the centuries.
It experienced a remarkable cultural flowering under the Normans.
This is most vividly felt in the Cathedral of Monreale, perched above the city – sublime architecture and art.

Around 600,000 people live in the Sicilian capital; the harbour remains a major economic force.
Agriculture and tourism also play significant roles.
And, of course, so does wine.

A press trip with an international cast

I cannot help referring once again to Goethe’s Italian Journey.

To secure the financing of his trip, the great poet negotiated with his publisher Göschen in Leipzig before leaving Karlsbad; the first collected edition of his works was to be published. A fee of 2,000 talers was discussed – and agreed upon.
After Duke Carl August continued to grant Goethe his ministerial salary at the end of 1786, the financial means were finally secured; the journey could finally begin.

I am invited by the Sicilia DOC Consorzio di Tutela Vini – Goethe or no Goethe.

In this essay, I will paint a picture of winegrowing in Sicily for you.
With the tones, aromas and nuances that light up the canvas of this land from Agrigento to Catania, from Palermo to Trapani and even in Vittoria.
A picture composed of wind, sun and rain, of the mountains, and of course of the people who work every day to vinify their wines with honesty, finesse, elegance and skill.

What is the Sicilia DOC Consorzio di Tutela Vini?

The controlled designation of origin Sicilia DOC was introduced in 2011.
In 2012, around 3,000 winegrowers, winemakers and bottlers founded the “Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia”, which is officially recognised by the Ministry of Agriculture. The consortium protects and promotes the Sicilia DOC brand, monitors compliance with production regulations, informs consumers and plans the marketing of the wines in order to strengthen the development of Sicilian winegrowing.

In 2014, the association was recognised by ministerial decree to carry out tasks related to protection, promotion, enhancement and consumer information, as well as to exercise “erga omnes” functions.

Key data (as of 2024)

• 20,595 hectares under cultivation
• 7,264 winegrowing enterprises
• 500 bottlers
• approx. 82 million bottles produced

Sicilian vineyard acreage, at just under 97,000 hectares, is among the largest in Italy. It is three times the size of, for example, the cultivated vineyard area in New Zealand and only slightly smaller than the total vineyard area of Germany.

Sicily – diversity of landscapes

The island has the shape of a triangle, whose sides extend into the Tyrrhenian Sea in the north, the Strait of Sicily in the south and the Ionian Sea in the east. It is a hilly island, mountainous in the north and interspersed with plains along the coasts. The region also includes numerous smaller islands, among them the Aeolian Islands, Ustica, the Aegadian Islands, Pantelleria, and the Pelagie Islands with Lampedusa and Linosa.

In the northeast rise the Sicilian Apennines with the Peloritani, Nebrodi and Madonie mountains, where Pizzo Carbonara (1,979 m) forms the highest peak on the island after Mount Etna. Mount Etna lies in the northeast and, at 3,350 metres, is one of the largest active volcanoes in the world.
The climate is typically Mediterranean: hot summers, mild and rainy winters.

Map of the wine-growing regions of Sicily

The itinerary

… is very well curated. A symposium by SOStain, an organisation explicitly dedicated to the subject of sustainability, will be covered in a separate article; it would go beyond the scope here. What can be said is that SOStain takes the tasks it has set itself in the field of sustainable agriculture very seriously.
Masterclasses, winery visits, culinary highlights, cultural treasures.
Ah, and not to forget colleagues from all over the world: a large group of excellent journalists, curious, experienced, expectant – and, of course, good conversations, what gives any worthwhile press trip its flavour.

Masterclass I

The masterclasses take place in Palazzo Branciforte. An aristocratic setting

In the mid-17th century, the heirs of the Count of Raccuja began expanding the residence and received permission from the Senate of Palermo to incorporate what had previously been a public street into the architectural structure — still clearly recognisable today. Such things are possible only with money, power and influence.

At the beginning of the following century, after work that almost doubled the size of the estate, the old Palazzo Raccuja — also known as Pietraperzia or Butera — had become one of the most opulent aristocratic residences in the city.

What a magnificent building! A worthy setting for the events to come.

Soil characteristics

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and the southernmost region of Italy. It covers an area of 9,444 square miles, more than 25,000 square kilometres.
Thanks to its size, its geographical position and its long and rich historical development, Sicily possesses a complex and diverse morphology and culture.

Varied soils — a true paradise for wine lovers; terroir, as so often, is the magic word.

Autochthonous grape varieties form the backbone of winegrowing. Robust vines that are suited to the demanding climate — in every sense.
In the mountains, a harsh wind often blows; hot, rain-poor summers place considerable demands on winemakers, vines and grapes alike.

• There are soils on hard magmatic and metamorphic bedrock of Apennine type in the area around Messina.
• The world-famous volcanic soils surrounding Mount Etna.
• There are also the calcareous and sedimentary hill soils of Calabria and Sicily, as well as the alluvial and coastal plains that extend as far as Palermo, along the entire northern coast and deep into the mountainous interior.
• Fine-grained siliceous calcareous sediments and magmatic rocks are found in the area around Syracuse and Vittoria.
• From Vittoria to Agrigento and up to Trapani one encounters clayey flysch, limestone, sandstone and chalk.
• And finally — around Catania — fluvial alluvial plains reaching to the coastal areas.

Chiara Giovoni leads the masterclass. The internationally recognised sommelier is a master of her craft. She describes the DNA of Sicilian wines to perfection.

A wine tasting in the morning? My thoughts turn to Ernest Hemingway. He once said:

“Drinking wine was neither snobbery nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult. It was as natural as eating and just as necessary for me …”

What applies to Hemingway does not have to apply to me. It is a matter of maintaining clarity of mind. All wines presented are tasted in such a way that, in the end, the evaluation is as objective as possible. Tannins, aromas, depth, finish, etc. Hard work.
Only a small sip from each glass; yet a little must run down the throat in order to sense the depth.
Water, always water – that is my rule at such events.

Nero d’Avola

A dark wine, enigmatic, full of depth, complex, intense.
It’s easy to become friends with the Nero, exploring the labyrinth of its aromas. Despite its pronounced, sometimes contrapuntal tannins, it leaves ample space for the fruity notes to breathe – especially when a skilful winemaker accompanies the vines from the vineyard to the moment they are bottled.
Cherry, strawberry and ripe fruit, pepper notes and hints of fresh, spicy vegetables – that is how I would describe the chord of a well-made Nero d’Avola.

Powerful modulations from cheerful C major to festive D minor: Nero can reveal itself in the glass as a true bravura piece.
The longer one engages with it, the more finely its pointed nuances rise to the nose.

The past twenty years have seen considerable change. Whereas Sicily was once known primarily for inexpensive mass-produced wines, the focus today is on sustainable and high-quality viticulture.
Sicilia DOC aims to produce wines that one can open at any time: fine, fresh, elegant, effortless to drink.
The mosaic of the island in a bottle – an excellent idea.

Grillo

Grillo today forms part of numerous DOC wines in central-western Sicily. Thanks to its qualitative virtues, the variety has in recent years established itself in other parts of the region as well—above all in the province of Agrigento, and to a lesser extent in Palermo, Caltanissetta, and Syracuse.

The wine shows an intense yellow with greenish reflections. On the nose it is highly aromatic, marked by typical citrus notes such as grapefruit, complemented by spicy-herbaceous accents and white blossoms. Nuances of passion fruit also appear. On the palate it presents itself as full-bodied, with a well-balanced structure of acidity and alcohol. Its pronounced aromatic length is typical.

A wine as light and buoyant as a beautiful Sicilian woman on her way to a loving rendezvous with her friend.
From a culinary perspective: It pairs wonderfully with a fresh trout, a few pistachios, some butter, and a few drops of olive oil.

Catarratto / Lucido

In more recent times, Sicilian winemakers were confronted with a problem: the name Catarratto proved difficult to pronounce outside Italy and was therefore difficult to promote.

To address this issue, the ministerial decree of 21 November 2018 permitted, exclusively for the designation of wines made from grapes harvested in Sicily, the use of the name “Lucido” on the label.

This term is by no means new: it had already been used earlier as a synonym, in particular for Catarratto Bianco Comune or Catarratto Bianco Lucido.

Catarratto (Lucido) wears a straw-yellow robe with greenish reflections. On the nose it is complex, often intense, marked by floral and fruity notes accompanied by citrus fruits, tropical aromas, and a delicate spiciness.
For me personally it has decidedly more character than Grillo, but: different noses, different notes.
If I—much as I like to do—were to distinguish Grillo and Lucido in musical terms, Grillo would be a graceful bossa nova: rhythmic, light, with wistful chords.
Lucido, by contrast, I would place among the ranks of a Chopin waltz.
A good wine.

On the palate, Catarratto presents itself with good body and persistent aromatics; the balance between acidity, fruit, and structure is characteristic of the variety. Depending on provenance and maturation, it appears somewhat more robust or shows a slightly more pronounced alcoholic note. The editions I have tasted myself were all of excellent quality.

A Journey to the Alessandro di Camporeale Winery

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he town of Camporeale lies 46 kilometres west of Palermo and is regarded as a hotspot for viticulture in the region. The Alessandro di Camporeale winery has been run by the family there for four generations. Benedetto Alessandro is an enthusiastic winemaker on the family-run estate, which is known for its high-quality organic wines—wines that unite tradition and modernity with ease. A particular highlight is the cuvée “Benedè,” a fresh Catarratto.
Together with his cousins Benedetto Alessandro, Anna, and the fathers, he continues the family’s winemaking tradition, which draws on more than a hundred years of experience and the unique soils around Camporeale.

With expertise, Benedetto Alessandro explains to us the idea behind his wines.
Sustainability stands foremost.
Fortunately, the climate cooperates: the summer days, as everywhere in Sicily, are very hot, yet the cool nights give the vines the opportunity to recover. The average lifespan of a vineyard parcel here is around forty years.
Once the vines of the Contrada Mandranova no longer deliver the desired yield or the targeted quality, these parcels are taken out of production and allowed to regenerate. The land is given time—in the spirit of biodynamic agriculture.

The Benedè Bianco Sicilia DOC, 100% Catarratto, is very good. The wine matures in steel tanks, comes from vines at various elevations, and convinces by its elegance.
Its radiant straw yellow, the subtly bitter almond notes, and the fruity accents of white peach and orange or citrus blossoms give this lively, fresh wine an exceptionally pleasant character.
A clear recommendation.
It pairs wonderfully with a dorade marinated with a touch of garlic and a dash of Sicilian lemon juice—with a hint of rosemary added, and the creation is ready to be served.

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Masterclass II

Hidden Gems: Indigenous grape varieties beyond the classics

…is the theme of the second masterclass, again led by Chiara Giovoni, this time joined by the oenologist Giuseppe Figlioli (Consigliere del CdA del Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia, Vice Presidente Assoenologi Sicilia).

Inzolia

Perhaps the vine is indeed of Sicilian origin, although Giovan Vettorio Soderini lists it around 1590 among the varieties cultivated in Tuscany under the name Ansorie.
Fabio Giavedoni, one of Italy’s best-known wine critics, and Maurizio Gily, an equally renowned wine blogger, affirmed in 2005 that Inzolia has its roots in Sicily and from there first made its way to Sardinia and later to the islands of Elba and Giglio.
Other hypotheses consider Inzolia to be identical with the Irziola mentioned by Pliny and therefore assume a Greek origin.
The genetic profile seems to confirm this thesis.

Either way, the aroma of this white wine is lightly nutty and delicately fruity. It sets accents with ripe peach, apricot, and pear; the bouquet also includes tropical notes such as pineapple and vanilla.

Ideal as an aperitif, Inzolia pairs wonderfully with seafood, shellfish, and all fish dishes, particularly grilled squid and fried bluefish.
I would describe it—as a Frenchman, raised on the plains of Bordeaux, might—as a typical vin de soif: a light wine with which, well chilled, you may gladly quench your thirst in summer. Properly crafted, many a bottle reaches a remarkably good level.

Zibibbo

The name “Zibibbo” points to the African origin of this Muscat d’Alexandrie and to a particular use of the grape, for zibibh means “raisin” in Arabic. Perhaps it is also a reference to the place Zibib in Tunisia, not far from Pantelleria.

Zibibbo is an aromatic white variety that can captivate with its intense bouquet of citrus fruits, apricots, and floral notes.
For me it is interesting—no more and no less, and I say that with all respect.
Such is the case when one has already tasted excellent Neros and Catarrattos beforehand.

Frappato

A family wine par excellence.
At this point I recommend a delightful little game, one that can be played anywhere with a good bottle:
Compare—drawing only on memory—the wine in your glass with the music you love. Sense the rhythm, listen to the melody, feel the bass, recognise the chords. You will be surprised to find that the message suddenly appears, like a spacecraft landing unexpectedly.
All at once you find yourself looking into a previously unknown universe, travelling at the speed of light from galaxy to galaxy. It is a marvellous experience—quite independent of whether you listen to classical music, jazz, pop, rock, or anything else: it works.

A small technical device that has accompanied me through twenty years of culinary exploration:
attack, plateau, decay, and sustain.
What happens first? How does the wine behave on the palate? How does it run down the throat, and what resonance does it leave behind?

One more small literary recommendation: Theodor W. Adorno. His posthumously published Aesthetic Theory is concerned with art and its social contexts.

Back to the topic: no winery forgoes including either a spumante or a rosé in its portfolio—ideally a pale rosé spumante.
It can be enjoyed in summer or winter, at the beach, in a bar, at home.

Frappato is distinguished by lightness and freshness—yet in my view, even in very good interpretations, it never attains the depth and structure of a properly matured Nero d’Avola. Scusate, cari amici del Frappato!
Also discussed was Perricone, a variety cultivated particularly in the provinces of Palermo and Trapani.

Baglio di Pianetto

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he large estate Baglio di Pianetto lies in a natural amphitheatre at an altitude of roughly 900 metres, not far from Piana degli Albanesi, about 25 kilometres from Palermo. The town of Piana degli Albanesi was founded in 1488 and bore the official name Piana dei Greci (Plain of the Greeks) until 1941, owing to the Byzantine rite of its church.

Today the town bears the official name Piana degli Albanesi, commonly also called Hora e Arbëreshëvet (Town of the Albanians). Between 1944 and 1945, Piana degli Albanesi became an independent republic for fifty days.

The Baglio di Pianetto estate pursues a sustainable approach with its biodynamic cultivation—the guiding thread of this press trip.

In view of climate change and the associated challenges for agriculture, this is an important step in the right direction.
Where Baglio di Pianetto once sought aromatical citations from high-class international wines, in recent years it has reconsidered its orientation and now follows a different concept.
The Sicilian terroir is reflected—and the conditions for this could not be better.

Grillo, Insolia, Viognier, Syrah, and of course Nero d’Avola are produced here.
Viafrancia is the estate’s signature line.

The vineyards lie in a hilly amphitheatre that encompasses the areas of Santa Cristina Gela and Piana degli Albanesi. The soil is clayey and rich in minerals. The climate is marked by large temperature differences. This gives rise to a wine with a very distinctive aromatic profile.

The estate was founded in the 1940s by Count Paolo Marzotto; with passion and devotion, wines of excellent quality were soon being vinified.

The minds behind the winery

Grégoire Desforgers belongs to the third generation of the Marzotto family, which for many years has taken responsibility for the winery’s development.

In 2023 the winery gained Dante Bonacina, a wine expert with an international reputation, known above all for his Italian champagnes, which he produced for many years for Ca’ del Bosco in Lombardy.

The oenologist Graziana Grassini completes the trio. The Tuscan entrepreneur, oenologist, and biologist is regarded as one of the most influential figures in the oenological world and ensures that only the finest quality is bottled.

The natural wine cellar

At Baglio di Pianetto they do not fight nature, but make measured use of it.
The hillside setting is ideal for this.

A large part of the facility lies underground, where the rock naturally stabilises the temperature. The cool stone walls protect the fermentation cellar, the barrel storage, and the ageing rooms from the heat of the day.

The Tasting

We were presented with a thoughtfully composed panorama of Baglio’s wines, all of them very good editions.

I was particularly impressed by the Insolia.

Citrus notes and floral accents are harmoniously balanced. The bouquet is further supported by hints of pink grapefruit, green apple, and turmeric. The elegant minerality reflects the position of the vines at 700 metres above sea level. The maturation here, too, follows biodynamic principles.
Excellent.

Tenuta Rapitalà

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enuta Rapitalà is among the most renowned names in the Sicilian wine landscape and is a natural part of this press trip.

Entering the exceptionally elegant patio, you feel for a moment as if you were in Mexico.
The large gate opens onto the magnificent mountain landscape—impressive indeed.
The firm clay soil in the area retains moisture and ensures that the roots are always adequately supplied with water.
A French style is cultivated here, with Sicilian nuances.

Nadir, for example, is a signature wine of the Tenuta, a Syrah Sicilia DOC.
An intense ruby red with purple, damask-coloured reflections. On the nose it reveals a distinct aroma with the ripe fruit and spice typical of this variety, rounded by subtle notes of vanilla.
On the palate the wine is full yet refined, with soft, elegant tannins—a harmonious interplay of the characteristic depth of Syrah and the uniqueness of this exceptional terroir.

The wines of Tenuta Rapitalà are finely composed.

The harvest for this Syrah takes place in September, when the grapes have reached their ideal ripeness. It begins with a six-day cold pre-maceration, followed by traditional maceration and fermentation at 25 °C under controlled conditions. These procedures allow for optimal extraction of the aromas as well as the soft, palate-friendly tannins.

A part of the wine passes through malolactic fermentation in new, medium-toasted barriques. After several months of maturation it is added to the remaining wine, which then spends another year in stainless steel at 25 °C under controlled conditions.

The result is a fragrant, fresh wine with a distinct fruit character, retaining the structure and strength typical of Syrah in Sicily’s warm climate.
With 14% alcohol, it is more a wine for the evening, as a companion to good poultry, for example.
Anyone who appreciates wines with a French touch will be very well served by a bottle from Tenuta Rapitalà. Sustainability has a firm place there.

A dinner with the producers

A dinner with the producers is part of the programme, allowing us to hear the voices of the winemakers.

We meet at Osteria Ballarò, a perfect location for such an event, right in the historic centre of Palermo. My neighbour at the table is the editor-in-chief of the long-established Spanish wine magazine La Semana Vitivinícola, Vicent Escamilla. Together we taste the wines presented to us by the producers or by the PR managers of the wineries.
I am particularly taken by the Catarratto from del Grillo, a family-run winery.

The Grillo family has been active in agriculture for three generations and has consistently relied on organic methods. A large part of their land is planted with vineyards in which only autochthonous varieties are cultivated. Other parts of the estate are devoted to olive groves of the Nocellara del Belìce and Cerasuola varieties; an extensive area serves as an orchard. A small part of the estate is also used for the cultivation of durum wheat.

Together with Vicent and the producers, we taste the wines according to my musical method.
The Catarratto from del Grillo immediately calls to mind the third movement of Felix Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto in E minor, op. 64—pure joie de vivre. The work is a favourite of audiences and virtuosos alike.

Vicent, for his part, is quick to consider a Nero musically; after a brief moment of reflection, he passes me his glass with the words, “this is a bossa nova.” I have nothing to add.

A good press trip. Our focus is on sustainable viticulture, as exemplified here. Sicily offers very good wine.
The island is a leader in biodynamic agriculture and viticulture in Italy; the message is clear: sustainability and respect for nature. This succeeds partly because the autochthonous varieties are suited to it, and partly because major challenges are tackled together.

The value for money is remarkable. A good Sicilia DOC wine comes at a pleasantly moderate price. This is appealing and shows how deeply wine culture is rooted in Sicilian society.

The journey was accompanied by distinguished experts, which made the masterclasses in particular highly valuable. The scientific approach was always evident, without overshadowing the friendly Sicilian character.

For my part, the wines on this beautiful island have stirred my curiosity—there is still much to discover.

BONUS: Hilary Hahn plays 3. Movement of Felix Mendelssohns Violinconcert E-Minor, Op.64

I made a virtue out of necessity and provide my readers of the 23 issue with a large photo series with impressions.
All in all, I could tell from my conversations that the new concept with more space for the exhibitors was well received.

In this form, we can look to the future with optimism for ProWein.

ProWein 2023 was a resounding success boasting top ratings from all sides and strong international reach. Wine and spirits professionals from all over the world experienced three intense days at the fair in Düsseldorf. Centre stage was the broad and deep range of wines and spirits from throughout the world. Above all, topics like sustainability, alternative wine packaging and no-and-low alcohol drinks shaped this year’s leading trade fair. As did pop icon Kylie Minogue, who launched her new alcohol-free sparkling rosé at ProWein. “ProWein has once again proven to be the leading international fair of the wine and spirits industry. As with the producers in the sector – achieving this takes a great deal of passion. We have once again done our best to not just be good but better,” said Erhard Wienkamp, Managing Director of Messe Düsseldorf, summing up the success of the event.

and more:

Exhibitors also gave ProWein top marks again this year. For instance, Monika Reule, Managing Director of the German Wine Institute (DWI) said: “German exhibitors gave a positive verdict on this year’s ProWein. They were very satisfied with the quality and quantity of trade visitors, especially from abroad. In view of the challenging market situation at home, the export business is becoming increasingly important for many producers. At this year’s ProWein, many exhibitors were able to strengthen and further expand their international trade links.” Paul Molleman, European Director at California Wines, summed up his ProWein experience: “The California Wines booth was once again one of the must-visits at the show for many visitors. On about 700sqm, more than 200 wineries were able to meet the demand very well. We struck a nerve with visitors with our “Explore Sustainable California” exhibit. Sustainable viticulture was the main topic of this trade show and we were able to present our commitment to this within the exhibition.”

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Selected guests, special wines and unique delicacies gathered once again at the Winemaker’s Dinner event by Lara Barut Collection. Becoming increasingly popular globally, the seventh of the Winemaker’s Dinner meetings, where Turkish winemakers gather with foreign visitors, was held on Sunday, November 13, accompanied by Selim and Pinar Ellialti, the Founders of Suvla Saraplari.

Lara Barut Collection, operating within the organization of Barut Hotels, one of the well-established hotel chains in Turkey, continues to hold unique gastronomic events. As part of these gastronomic events, the seventh of Winemaker’s Dinner meetings, where the selected Turkish winemakers gathered with the visitors, was held on Sunday, November 13, 2022.

This time, the guest of the event, which welcomes different guests every month, was Suvla Saraplari, which was founded on the Gallipoli Peninsula in the early 2000s. Selim and Pinar Ellialti, the founders of Suvla, which meticulously processes century-old local grapes such as Karasakiz, Kinali Yapincak and Agiorgitiko into world-class award-winning wines in their organic-certified family vineyards of 900 decares, conversed with foreign guests. Participants had the chance to taste nine different Suvla wines. The wines were matched with a gourmet menu of ‘Fine Dining’ by Secret Grill, the À La Carte restaurant of Lara Barut Collection offering premium delicacies.

Even as a young brand, Suvla received and added into its portfolio almost 450 medals, which are mostly gold and grand prizes, within a very short time. It has confirmed its quality and savor at the competitions including Balkan International Wine Competition, Mundus Vini, China Wine & Spirits Awards- Best Value, Les Citadelles du Vin, Berliner Wein Trophy Winter Tasting, International Wine Challenge, International Organic Wine Awards, International Wine Competition Bucharest, Syrah du Monde, Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Decanter World Wine Awards, AWC Vienna and Sommelier Wine Awards.

Turkey ranks 30th in the world with 64 million 400 thousand liters of wine made annually. Lara Barut Collection supports winemakers, who turn delicious grapes native to Turkey into wines with rich and strong characteristics and crown their success with numerous international awards. For this purpose, it has been holding Winemaker’s Dinner meetings on the second weekend of every month since May. For wine tastings, Secret Grill, the À La Carte restaurant of Lara Barut Collection offering premium delicacies, makes special menus matching with wines. With all the food being grilled, this restaurant creates selected delicacies for the event. The visitors get to know Turkish gastronomic culture closely and get information about its cultural and historical heritage.

Until now, the brand owners including Mustafa Camlica (Chamlija), Burak Ozkan (Lykia Wineyards), Sibel Kutman Oral (Doluca Saraplari), Enis Guner (Sevilen Saraplari), Cevza Basman (Kavaklıdere Saraplari), Akin Ongor (Selendi Saraplari) have participated in these meetings, introduced domestic and imported grapes in Turkey, and told about the inspiring journeys of their brands.

In the vineyard

Already in the 19th century Deidesheim was known for its excellent vineyards, at that time the Seyler family lived in the palace and – how could it be otherwise – of course was wine-growing. A frequent guest and a friend of the family was Karl May, who made himself immortal with his characters Winnetou and Old Shatterhand. His passion for good wines repeatedly drew the writer to this palace, where he could enjoy his passion to his heart’s content and let himself be inspired. The composer Johannes Brahms also had the pleasure of staying at the mansion for one night.
In this atmosphere of candlelight and beauty, Marie Menger-Krug welcomes us cordially, she develops her sparkling wine to perfection with great intellect and passion.

Marie loves her vineyards, knows every grape, every path. She patiently recites to me about the roses, the lavender, the mallows and the clover, the fruit trees that flank the vineyards in a gentle order. Incidentally, the roses have a practical function today as they did in the past: They show us whether the grapes are threatened by an insidious mould fungus, if the rose is infested, the vineyard is also in danger!

Already at the beginning of September the grapes are in full bloom, Climate change has done its part to push the harvest forward year after year, which is both a blessing and a curse.

I learn something about the different locations on the Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad, where the vineyards line up like a pearl string. Each of them has its own history and even its own nickname. At the top is “Die Mauer”, there is “Den Jungen”, the “Himmel so Nah” and the “Trimm Dich”. The last one is by the way a steep vineyard leading into the height, which was formerly gladly called “Bück Dich”. In the time of the grandfather only the prettiest women were sent there, in the course of a correct semantics the name was disarmed a little bit!

In the wine cellar

[typography font=”Abril Fatface” size=”20″ size_format=”px” color=”#e1cca1″][dropcap]J[/dropcap][/typography]ust at the entrance of the impressive cellar there stands the large moon oak barrels, the wood for them is lumbered after the first full moon, it is more durable and harder than conventional barrel wood. Marie Menger-Krug observes nature very closely, lives with it, learns from it. These barrels contain the very best wine, Chardonnay and Riesling.  Only the best grapes find their way into these exclusive barrels, where they are allowed to ripen for 11 months, mostly on the first yeast and naturally fermented spontaneously, this is the secret, this is the key to success!

We drink a Rosé Brut from the Spätburgunder grape, delicious golden pink, tender mousseux, subtle fruit, everybody’s darling!

Marie likes to work with the wood, The Winemaker likes to work with the wood, the Red Wine barrique degustation is a special challenge, on a longer distance each barrel is tested and tasted individually!  Every year the winemaker have to develop a new feeling for her sparkling wines. The weather, wood, grapes, everything is in movement, everything changes, a constant cycle.
In keeping with the tradition, Marie Menger-Krug cools the cellar with water,, samples are taken daily to monitor the development of her “cellar children”, and this is how she tenderly calls the barrels.
The fermentation behaviour is difficult, astonishingly, some barrels behave quite differently than their neighbour, a secret science!

Marie painstakingly observes the development of the barrels and discovers weaknesses and strengths at an early stage.
She works with the «Méthode Rurale», a traditional process in which the very best grapes are first harvested, the soul of the Sparkling Wine! The grapes are then fermented with champagne yeasts in the tank when they finally have the right amount of residual sugar. Once the correct pressure is built up in the bottle, they are filled from the yeast down to the sparkling wine. So the route does not go via wine, but directly to sparkling wine.
This is a risky process that regularly drives sweaty beads onto the winemaker’s forehead.
By the way, all wines are organically cultivated, all from their own vineyards.

Finally, we can admire the 30 year old bottles, which could be opened immediately to drink them empty with the greatest pleasure.

The sparkling wine collection:

• classic bottle fermentation
• Ecologically grown and cultivated
• individual, lots of terroir, inimitable elegance

The Line:

• Motzenbäcker Brut Nature
• Motzenbäcker Riesling Brut
• Motzenbäcker Blanc de Blancs
• Motzenbäcker Rosé Brut Nature

website: Sektgut Motzenbäcker

read article as PDF

Mathias Guthmann im Interview mit Uwe Warnecke

For 7 years now, sommelier Uwe Warnecke and Philipp Kiefer have been organising the “véritable” wine fair in St.Martin in the Palatinate. Every year, the big names of the international winegrowers’ scene meet there to present their products to the professional public.
Grandgourmand had the great pleasure of interviewing the renowned sommelier in detail. The interview took place in the “Villa im Paradies” in Deidesheim. Marie Menger-Krug runs one of the best sparkling wine manufacturers in Germany.

GG:  “Whoever can enjoy, no longer drinks wine, but tastes secrets”, a sentence written by the great surrealist Salvador Dali.
Maybe that’s why you wanted to become a sommelier, to get a little closer to the secret of wine?

Uwe Warnecke: No, the subject of wine is to combine, sometimes very extreme.

GG: Was there a source of inspiration in your career, perhaps a mentor?

Uwe Warnecke: There are a few people: Hardy Rodenstock, Wolfgang Engelhardt, Peter Beck, Werner Knipser and Bernd Philippi, with these people I was allowed to drink the greatest wines in the world.
That means for me back to the 19th and 20th century, great cinema, for example 47 or 23 Pétrus, Mouton, everything there is.
My fatherly friend, I like to say, is Bernd Philippi. He comes from Kallstadt, where he has the famous location “Saumagen”. He has the centrepiece in place, the prime fillet, his Riesling is cult and legend! He is a great connoisseur, travels around the world together with Bernhard Breuer.
With him, by the way, he has a winery in Portugal. Both work as consultants, for example in Madeira. Phillipi was the first one I met in the Palatinate, we had dinner together practically every weekend, he always had his mixed breed dog from Madeira with us.

We drove through the vineyards together, to Freinsheim. There was a very small Italian restaurant there. We drank simple Chianti, ate carpaccio and small calamares.

GG: A sommelier does not simply decline vocabulary or learn facts from memory. The guest should be enthusiastic about the product. Isn’t the sommelier in a way also a moderator, who knows many different areas, so that he can lead an inspiring conversation with his guests?

Uwe Warnecke: Sometimes it seems to me that the sommelier is too much commentator. The sommelier should already be enthusiastic about the product, but he should also stay in the background.

GG: It is a special talent not simply to follow a trend in a reflexive manner, but to recognize trends and innovative details.
Is this a science for you, is it stylistic considerations, or does passion help in the end to find the right track?

Uwe Warnecke: There are only three things: passion, enthusiasm and emotions. If they’re not there, no matter what you do and be it crochet, you can put the lid on, it won’t work.

GG: Let’s talk about wine and food. A good sommelier focuses on specific accents, which in turn evoke differentiated reactions. In my opinion, a subtle recommendation stands before a “palatable” overall picture. Afterwards, food and wine intermesh in the finest way, creating a multi-faceted, complex aroma painting.
Do you achieve this goal with intuition or do conceptual considerations predominate?

Uwe Warnecke: I would say quite clearly: With intuition. I can’t go to the guest at the table and start with a concept. I have to approach each guest differently, I have to check beforehand what he would be prepared to spend for a bottle of wine.

GG: For you at the time of the wine trend, if it even exists?

Uwe Warnecke: At the moment: Rosé! By the way, Markus Molitor also cultivates rosé on the Moselle, Markus Schneider cultivates it with great success. It’s definitely a little trend, rosé!

GG: You have travelled a long way, somewhere in the world there will always be a wine you can tell a story about, which you have already tried.
Where do you think the wine from your adopted country Deidesheim is compared internationally?

Uwe Warnecke: I have to go way back. There are large wineries in Deidesheim that are already very old: Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, von Deinhard, von Winning, Menger-Krug.
We have world-class locations here, Kirchenstück, Pechstein, absolute top Riesling.

GG: A sommelier has to be sensitive and make clear decisions at the same time, the wine has to go with the food, although the taste perception is extremely subjective.
First of all, it is not unusual for the guest to have a completely different idea than the sommelier.
Do you approach this subject with a method, or do you make the selection “from the instinct”?

Uwe Warnecke: I never want to overwhelm a guest, I never want the guest to think I am smarter than he is. I don’t want him to realize, that I’m here. I want to play with my guest, let him enjoy it without his wallet hurting.

GG:  A good topic, wouldn’t it be time to rethink the prices on the wine list? I often pay excessive prices for a mediocre wine!

Uwe Warnecke: Yes, the wine lists in Germany are totally overpriced. The restaurateurs have a calculation with a multiplication factor of 300, that is a No-Go! I don’t enjoy drinking a “Großes Gewächs” with my wife in the evening, which is very expensive anyway, I can’t afford a second bottle anyway. After all, you want to eat, order a dessert and have a cup of coffee. The gastronomy has to calculate this more favorably and increase the turnover rate!

GG: The “véritable” will go into its 8th edition in 2018. Initially still an insider tip, the exclusive wine fair in beautiful St.Martin has developed into one of the top events in the business. Over and over again you succeed in attracting winegrowers who enjoy an excellent international reputation:
Dirk Niepoort, who revolutionized viticulture in Portugal, Alois Lageder – organic wine legend from South Tyrol, Angelo Gaja – who developed wine to perfection in Italy, Pierre Trimbach from Alsace with his wonderful Rieslings and Pinots, Baron Patrick de LaDoucette – Godfather of Pouilly-Fumé and many others.
How would you explain this success story to our readers?

Uwe Warnecke: I wouldn’t count LaDoucette among them, it’s a mass product. On the Loire there are 3 or 4 really excellent wines, for example Didier Dagueneau. These are very special wines, not as accommodating as LaDoucette. The véritable is the most beautiful wine fair in Germany.

But to your question: I have good contacts, call my friends and they come. It’s the winegrowers themselves who stand at their stand, you don’t see any painted fingernails. I want the winegrowers themselves! Even if they still have dirt from the vineyard on their clothes, these are the guys I need!

GG: Would you perhaps have some statistics for us, such as visitors, sales volume, etc.?

Uwe Warnecke: 650 visitors, next year 100 winegrowers, otherwise I don’t like to talk about numbers.

GG: Parkhotel Restaurant “La Truffe” (sommelier), Deidesheimer Hof (Maître d’Hôtel), Queen Elisabeth II (restaurant manager). These are only a few stages of your professional career.

Which of these prestigious stations do you associate with the most interesting memories?

Uwe Warnecke: “La Truffe”, that was a very interesting time. We did great things, the salmon was cut at the table, tartar, making crêpes suzette at the table, filleting fish correctly, snipe, quails, very classic, hardly exist today. They worked right in front of the guest. You could learn a lot.

I had the great fortune to work as a maître de restaurant in the Aachen gala with Joel B. Payne, at that time he was my cupbearer, I like that word better than the sommelier.

I stood over him in that position, but I never stopped learning from Joel. There was the largest private portwine-cellar in Germany: Graham, Cockburn, Taylor, Niewpoort and many others.

GG: How many bottles do I need to drink to approach your level of knowledge?

Uwe Warnecke: Not to be quantified in numbers, if a wine does not taste me, then it is put aside, is not drunk.

GG: Your personal favourite is a Riesling from the Palatinate?

Uwe Warnecke: No, no, my favorites are a “Château Cheval Blanc 1947 MAGNUM”, or a 23er Pétrus MAGNUM.

GG: it’s hard to get to, isn’t it?

Uwe Warnecke: Of course I can’t afford it either, but I was allowed to taste it.

GG: Your opinion about the screw cap?

Uwe Warnecke: A good thing in the lower price range for the gastronomy, especially for serving in glasses. For me, cork is indispensable for the high qualities.
If the waiter doesn’t enjoy opening the bottle, that’s not good.

GG: I have already heard a lot about your own wine, the Crazy Uwe, would you tell our readers something about it, could I perhaps even taste it?

Uwe Warnecke: Of course you can taste it, I’ll send you a bottle. Philipp Kiefer developed it according to my ideas.
It lies in a cellar, 250 years old, spontaneous fermentation in a Nick Weis barrel.

I recommend Magnums! Next year, Crazy Uwe, just Magnums.
A very light wine with 8.5% alcohol, I do not have the soils here like on the Moselle. Nevertheless, I managed a wine, with a good acidity and a great statement!

I have one final comment:

The sommeliers make many mistakes: the boys claim that wine in glass is not possible. Often the wine knowledge does not go beyond the wine list.
Without further inquiry longer lectures are held, but I only want to drink and enjoy wine! Digestif knowledge often goes towards zero.
The sommelier’s title is falsified: cheese sommelier, water sommelier, bread sommelier, what’s the point?

The constant refilling, one mixes old and fresh wine, all the time.
Often the wine is poured on much too early.
Working at the table is practically extinct, who knows about a duck press, for example?
Something else for decanting: It is better to do this with young wines, the old ones should be left alone, otherwise they oxidize too quickly.

Dear Uwe Warnecke, thank you very much for this interview!

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Mathias Guthmann im Interview mit Philipp Kiefer, Foto: Tom Mettendorf

[typography font=”Abril Fatface” size=”20″ size_format=”px” color=”#e1cca1″][dropcap]P[/dropcap][/typography]hilipp Kiefer war 2015 Deutschlands bester Jungwinzer. Im pfälzischen St.Martin ist es ihm gelungen Weine anzubauen, die auch mit den ganz Großen mithalten können. Er ist zusammen mit Uwe Warnecke einer der Organisatoren der véritable, wo sich Jahr für Jahr die Top-Winzer der Branche ein Stelldichein geben.

GG: Lieber Philipp, Sie sind der kreative Kopf hinter der Ambrosia-Linie, auf Ihrer Website kann man lesen, dass Ihr Riesling, den Sie zusammen mit Lars Lander entwickelt haben, ewige Jugend verleihen soll. Ich persönlich finde, dass der Anspruch absolut in Ordnung geht.

Aromen, Gerüche und Geschmack sind ja unmittelbar mit unseren Erinnerungen verbunden, und diese Erinnerungen halten uns ja auch jung.

Unsere Frage: Gibt es da eine Dosierungs-Anleitung? Funktioniert das schon mit einer einzigen  Flasche oder muss man größere Mengen davon trinken um diese wunderbare Wirkung zu erzielen?

Philipp: (lacht) Man muss den Riesling schon in rauen Mengen trinken, am besten Magnum Flaschen!

Wir bauen die Rieslinge ja so aus, wie sie von der Natur erwachsen, wir belassen die Säure, in der Jugend sind sie deswegen etwas rauer, verschlossener, sie werden spontan angegoren. Sie haben eine etwas höhere Säure, sie brauchen das aber auch, weil sie etwas „stoppig“ sind und viel Frucht haben. Dagegen stehen Argumente wie Mineralik, Säure und Holz, die Weine sind sehr langlebig, auch weil die Stöcke ausgezeichnet sind.

GG: Das ist sehr komplex was da im Weinberg vor sich geht…

Philipp: Wir haben den Weinberg 2006 angepachtet, alles wurzelechte Stöcke…

GG: Ich hake kurz ein: Wurzelecht bedeutet, dass unter der Erde die gleiche DNA vorhanden ist wie über der Erde, beim Fruchtträger…

Philipp: Genau so ist es. Es kam dann die Flurbereinigung, ich habe damals die besten fünfzig Stöcke ausgesucht und habe sie in die Vermehrung geschickt. Darüber habe ich dann auch eine Diplomarbeit geschrieben. Jeder einzelne Stock wurde von mir probiert beziehungsweise ausgepresst. Das beste Ergebnis war dann die Diversität, also die unterschiedlichen Stöcke. Die haben wir dann weitervermehrt und wieder in den Weinberg gesetzt.

GG: Sie sind mit den Traditionen eines angesehenen Weinhauses aufgewachsen. Sozusagen mit dem Weine groß geworden. Gab es jemals die Idee, etwas anderes zu werden als Winzer? Zum Beispiel Astronaut, Pilot, Lokführer oder Feuerwehrmann?

Philipp: Lange Zeit habe ich nicht gewusst, was ich machen soll, einfach weil es auch sehr stressig ist bis man sich mit dem Produkt Wein identifiziert. Nach dem Abitur stand die Entscheidung aber dann fest. Die Lehrzeit habe ich dann bei von Wenningen und bei August Ziegler in Maikammer durchgezogen. Während des Studiums habe ich viel verkostet und Kontakte geknüpft. Ein halbes Jahr lang war ich in Neuseeland, die Liebe zum Wein ist damals entstanden.

GG: Rieslinge?…

Philipp: Nicht ganz, ich war vorwiegend in Hawke’s Bay. Hauptsächlich Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, viel Sauvignon-Blanc. Es ging dann in den Süden der Insel, in Central Otago habe ich dann Pinot Noir gemacht.

GG: Hatten Sie (außer Ihrem Vater) Vorbilder, die Ihr Schaffen am Weinberg geprägt haben?

Philipp: Mein Vater hat schon früh mit Barrique-Fässern hantiert, Anfang 1980,  St.Martin war damals eher touristisch bekannt, der Weinbau spielte eine untergeordnete Rolle. Wir haben das geändert indem wir die Qualität gepusht haben, wir haben viel Arbeit reingesteckt. Ende 1990 hat man dann angefangen die Trauben zu halbieren, zu entblättern, die Arbeit im Weinberg wurde verfeinert, das ist das Wichtigste. Im Keller kann ich die Traube nur erhalten, sie muss quasi in bester Qualität schon in den Keller kommen.

Es hängt viel am Boden, die Mineralik ist natürlich hier anders als an der Mosel, eignet sich aber sehr gut für den Riesling.

GG: Genau wie ich, sind Sie ein großer Riesling-Fan. Welchen Wein darüber hinaus schenken Sie sich gerne einmal ein?

Philipp: Ich liebe den trockenen Riesling, aber auch ganz klar einen Chardonnay aus dem Burgund.

Es kommt auf den Anlass an, restsüße Tropfen von der Mosel, ein schöner Kabinett zum Beispiel. Alles was gut gemacht ist, trinke ich auch gerne. Ein schöner Winzersekt, so etwas liebe ich auch, muss nicht gleich Champagner sein, aber die kleinen Sekthäuser sind oft grandios. Früher haben wir oft Weinproben mit Uwe Warnecke gemacht, es wurde alles mögliche an großen Weinen probiert.

GG: Ein guter Wein entsteht ja bekanntlich in der Vorstellung des Winzers. Gedanklich und handwerklich muss alles passen. Gab es schon echte Rückschläge, also zum Beispiel ein Jahrgang, der so gar nicht ihren Erwartungen entsprochen hat?

Philipp: Ich war zum Beispiel vom Jahrgang 2011 enttäuscht, für uns passen eher die säurehaltigen Jahrgänge. 2008, 2010 und 2013 waren große Jahrgänge, 2016 auch, sehr fruchtbetont mit toller Säure. 2012 und 2015 waren opulente Rotwein-Jahrgänge. 2011 war einfach „zwittrig“, hat nicht meinen Vorstellungen entsprochen, zog sich aber so durch ganz Deutschland. 2006 war übrigens auch nicht so toll, ging schnell in die Botrytis (Grauschimmelfäule, Anm. d. R.).

GG: Man steckt das weg und bringt die Weine gar nicht in den Verkauf?

Philipp: Genau, wir haben teilweise gar nichts abgefüllt in diesen Jahrgängen, für Ambrosia brauchen wir die Top-Jahrgänge. Reinsortiger Cabernet muss halt durchgereift sein.

GG: Eine ganz andere Frage: welchen Tropfen aus Ihrem Sortiment würden Sie eher den Damen empfehlen und gibt es einen besonders männlichen Wein in Ihrem Portfolio?

Philipp: Der «Gewürztraminer, fruchtig» kommt sehr gut an, absolut ein Frauenwein sage ich mal. Im Trend für Männer und Frauen liegt im Moment der Blanc de Noirs, super-fruchtig, Easy-Drinking, ein ganz unkomplizierter Wein.

Männlich sind natürlich unsere kantigen Rotweine mit ordentlich Gerbsäure, zum Beispiel der «Cuvée Alois», sind zwar anfangs ziemlich rustikal,  entwickeln sich aber auf die Jahre top!
Am Anfang sind die kantig, schwer zugänglich, nach 3 oder 4 Jahren sind sie dann aber ein Gedicht, dann sind sie aber schon ausverkauft!

GG: Sie sind einer der Veranstalter der véritable, die Auswahl der Weine ist ja sehr persönlich. Was unterscheidet dieses Event noch von anderen Veranstaltungen dieser Art?

Philipp: Einige Großveranstaltungen sind überdimensioniert und unpersönlich, es gibt Veranstaltungen mit über 6000 Ausstellern. Hier ist es familiär, bei gutem Wetter eine Super-Atmosphäre, es ist einfach idyllisch. Die véritable ist auch für den Ort St.Martin sehr wichtig geworden, die Messe kommt sehr gut an. Zudem sind alle Winzer selbst da, ein großes Plus!

GG: Sie wollen nächstes Jahr weitermachen, natürlich mit Uwe Warnecke?

Philipp: Ja, wir haben für Uwe Warnecke sogar einen Wein ausgebaut, den «Crazy Uwe». Ein Riesling, gelesen im Maikammerer Heiligenberg, er wollte so einen Kabinett-Style. Schwache Spätlese, wenig Alkohol, schöne Säure, langlebig. Ausgebaut wie ein Riesling-Kabinett von der Mosel, wir haben von Nick Weis ein Fass bekommen und darin spontan vergoren. Er ist nun zum ersten Mal abgefüllt, einfach großartig!

GG: Die Ambrosia Linie ist ja nun sehr bekannt, der Riesling wurde im Gault Millau 2014 mit sagenhaften 89 Punkten bedacht. Gibt es Pläne, ganz neue Kreationen auf den Markt zu bringen? Boden und Klima sind ja vielfältig in dieser Gegend, da sollte doch noch etwas gehen, nicht wahr Phillipp?

Philipp: Ich habe schon ein anderes Thema! Der Ambrosia ist nicht so einfach zu verstehen, wenn man die Gegend hier nicht kennt. In Zukunft will ich den Ambrosia  vielleicht als Reserve-Linie lassen, ich schiebe dann einfach nicht klassifizierte große Weine rein, zum Beispiel einen Chardonnay, einen Cabernet oder einen Cuvée. Oben drüber setze ich dann die 2 Steillagen, für den Kirchberg zum Beispiel mit Pinot Noir und Riesling. Dauert alles seine Zeit, die Weine sind noch zu jung.

GG: Sind Sie mit Ihren Weinen in die gehobene Gastronomie vorgestoßen, und wenn ja: Mit welchem?

Philipp: Wir sind regional gut vertreten, außerdem im Deidesheimer Hof, Krone Haina, Wolfsburg Aqua, Goldmann Frankfurt. Es gibt gute Adressen, das wird aber noch mehr.

GG: Eine letzte Frage: Ist der biologische Anbau für Sie ein Thema, Stichwort «Orange Wine»?

Philipp: Wir arbeiten naturnah so weit es geht. In schwierigen Jahrgängen wollen wir aber nicht auf einen Pflanzenschutz verzichten. Herbizide für den Boden werden aber nicht eingesetzt. Wenn die Rebe intakt ist, dann läuft es ohne Hilfsmittel, ansonsten muss man etwas tun. Genau so ist es ja auch beim Menschen, wenn er krank ist, man muss dann tätig werden.

Lieber Philipp, vielen Dank für dieses ausführliche Gespräch!

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GG: Gaia, I’m well known for my musical descriptions of wine and food, in fact this is a good way to find the words that fit for the product. For example I wrote about the «Brillecart-Salmon, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru», that this champagne dances through the nose like  a Viennese Waltz attended by fresh almonds, dry fruit and walnuts.

May I compare your «Barbaresco DOCG 2013» with the overture from Gioachino Rossinis Barbiere di Sivigla? This wine is so perfect and so elegant with this translucent colors and the balanced fruit, that it simply remembers me the absolute classical and subtile piece from the italian Master.
Or perhaps – while working on your wineyard or in the cellar – you will have in mind your own music?

Gaia: I love your comments, but I’m not an expert for music, so I can’t make a comparison. The 2013 Barbaresco is very joyful and so the fact that you compare it to the Barbiere di Sivigla is a great analysis. It is a Barbaresco full of energy, vibrancy, a lot of perfumes, it’s very delicate, a very good comparison.

Music and wine: What is important in music and what is important in wine? In the sense of rhythm we have the seasons and the work in the wineyard during the seasons, repeating it year after year. Although we talk about rhythm and balance in the wine, finally this rhythm connects wine and music, I see, there is a great analogy.

GG: Gaia, your father is one of the most important wine-makers in italy and maybe in the world. How did you get involved in the wine-making processes, was it rather natural or can we compare it with a Teacher-Student relationship?

Gaia: It took long time, step after step, really slowly to approach the real wine-making. You have to gain your own respect, you did not get it because your are the daughter of your father. You have to be liked, and when your are liked from your team the things goes close together, it took time! I worked with my father because I loved the family.

I loved this thing that I could bring forward the project and my dreams, I was involved since childhood, even from my grandfather. Little by little this project became mine, it was no more just a pleasure to carry out a project of a person that I love, now it was my project!

GG: We all know, that the personality of the winemaker makes the wine. Do you have a favourite vintage that – in your opinion – represents approximately your own ideas and dreams?

Gaia: I’m not the only one in the cellar, little by little I was involved in the main things, but in a familiy-business you cannot do all, makes no sense. Your are right: 2013 was the year when things changed, my sister and me became the acting persons behind the management.

When you are behind the decisions of your company, all what you do becomes a self-portrait, it is the same with wine. I feel that 2013 is the year reflecting more from my sister and myself.

GG: Personnaly I like the great Rieslings from the Moselle, do you have a favourite German wine?

Gaia: I like very much as a person and for her wines Theresa Breuer and I’m a fan of the «Maximin Grünhaus» Rieslings.

I’m not an expert in german wine, but I think, that the german wines a very underestimated in the world, a mistake of the german producers! They should go out into the world and show their wines. There are some outstanding products in Germany, they can age forever, the world is not drinking them as much as it should! Just go out into the world, find local importers, make the people know about your wine.

GG: Even possessing an astonishing knowledge about the wines of the worlds and their diversed descriptions, the work of a sommelier often stands on wobbly legs. This fact has the reason, that the combination of culinary and wine happens in a very complicated situation, regarding the human taste. Did you investigate the different tasteful moments we have, while degusting a wine together with a culinary meal?

Gaia: A difficult question. I think that today these things are a little bit more complicated than in the past, when we talked about  french wine with french food or german wine with german food or wine from Piedmont with food from Piedmont. Nowadays we must combine wine with Asian Food, with Indian Food, with Japanese Food, with complicated dishes. It’s really more then to combine White Wine with fish and Red Wine with meat.

We have to pay attention to the texture of wine and food, unfortunately this is not diretcly a part of the european culture, we often set the focus too much on the taste, but it’s the texture where the action is. Of course a tonic wine fits very good for a  greasy or creamy meal, and of course a very young Barbaresco fits this dishes too! A Tonic wine goes fine with a fat dish, but also with a Toro-Tuno Sashimi, we have to pay attention to the texture of the ingredients.

GG: What are your plans regarding winemaking in the next time?

Gaia: Oh, there are some beautiful news: This spring my father bought 20 hectares of land at the Etna in Sicily. Ok, there are more questions then answers now, the land is in 800 meters above sea level, we must take account of the climate change. The land is in the south, but weather is cool. There is a wine similar to the nebbiolo the «Nerello Mascalese», we will have the first harvest,  the project is planned for the next 20 years.The story gave a new youth to my father, he is very excited!

GG: So we wish you all the best for your projects Gaia, thank you for the inteview.

All rights reserved, Copying, also in extracts, only with written approval by the editor Mathias Guthmann

Sven Nieger

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arnhalt steht für einen ausgezeichneten Riesling mit einer langen Geschichte. Steile, felsige Berghänge, an denen eine gute Rebe wächst. Ich habe diese fruchtigen, erfrischenden Rieslinge gerne zu einem guten Essen getrunken, oder eine Zigarre dabei gepafft, das Zitrus-Aroma mit Himbeer-Zitaten, eine leichte Brise und der verträumte Blick auf das Tal haben mich immer entzückt.
In den letzten Jahren wurde das Gebiet nicht recht bewirtschaftet, wirtschaftliche Prozesse haben Umwälzungen bewirkt,  die Alterspyramide tat das Übrige dazu die Dinge zu erschweren.

Eine Degustation, die ich aus einer Varnhalter Lage auf der Slow Food Messe  in Stuttgart genießen durfte, hat mich begeistert: Die fantastischen Weine des Sven Nieger. Aus den steinigen Lagen holt der junge Winzer alles raus, was möglich ist, das Endprodukt ist sehr komplex, elegant, detailreich und raffiniert. Die Geschichte Niegers wurde schon ausgiebig in einschlägigen Magazinen beleuchtet, ich muss hier nicht weiter darauf eingehen, nur eines sei gesagt, alle Auszeichnungen und Preise die er sich mit seinen Tropfen erarbeitete sind hoch verdient, die Produkte sind außergewöhnlich.

Ich durfte drei Weißweine degustieren, den »Gutshof Riesling«, den »Stich den Buben«
und – Top of the Pops -, den »Klosterberg«. Einige seiner Weine werden auf den Karten bekannter Gourmet Tempel wie das Bareiss in Baiersbronn geführt, ein Ritterschlag. Bewundernswert ist der Weg des Winzers, Nieger hat kein Risiko gescheut um einen Wein zu produzieren, der ganz genau seinen Vorstellungen entspricht, man merkt das bei jedem Schluck.

Schon der »Gutshof Riesling«, der “Brotwein” im Portfolio ist ein aromatisches Kraftpaket, trotzdem ungeheuer elegant, wie eine junge Frau, die sich für ein Tête-à-Tête zurecht gemacht hat, und nun mit geschmeidigen Schritten ihrem Liebhaber entgegen schreitet. Zitronige Noten werden von pfirsichartigen Akkorden begleitet, auf der Zungenspitze tummeln sich exotische Geschmacksfetzen als seien sie  Forellen im Bach, lebendig, vergnügt, der samtige Abgang ist eine Wucht. Der Wein ist ungewöhnlich trocken, das ist aber nicht unangenehm, im Gegenteil, wie ich finde eine neuartige und stringente Interpretation des Begriffs.
Mit dem »Stich den Buben« steigert sich das sensorische Erlebnis. Der erste Schluck ist überraschend, spritzig, exotisch, irritierend, kompliziert, vollmundig. Der Wein ist einfach nur sexy. Das mineralische Element wird gekonnt unterfüttert mit ätherischen Düften aus Mango, Orange. Auf der Zungenspitze luftiger Hauch von Minze, auch hier wieder das Trockene auf einer neuen Ebene. Der Wein macht mich unsicher, auf eine aufregende Art, man will ihn ergründen, die Geheimnisse lüften, dann wieder einfach nur trinken und das Aroma für das Gedächtnis konservieren. Der Wein von Sven Nieger ist bildmächtig, man assoziert sofort etwas damit.

Schließlich der »Klosterberg Felsen«, das Juwel, ein großer Wein, kein Zweifel. Hier vereint sich alles was die Lage bietet zu einem aromatischen Gesamtkunstwerk. Das Bukett überzeugt mit einer fantastischen Aromabreite, exotisch, elegant, kraftvoll. Noten von Passionsfrucht und Salbei werden mineralisch untermalt und fügen sich zu einem grandiosen Gemälde, das uns in treffenden Farben die Landschaft geschmacklich beschreibt. Hier stimmt einfach alles, der Wein ist sehr gut  komponiert,  harmonisch und doch  spannend, eine Sinfonie der Düfte. Salzige Untertöne erinnern an die Herkunft, alles ist stimmig. Ich spüre förmlich die Arbeit, die hier geleistet wurde, einfach furios, ich ziehe meinen Hut.
Selten habe ich so gute Weißweine degustiert. Perfekt abgestimmt, ein Erlebnis für die Sinne.

Absolute Grandgourmand Empfehlung

weitere Informationen hier:

Weingut Sven Nieger
Gartenstraße 21
76534 Baden-Baden (Varnhalt)