Rehkeule Baden-Baden
Rehkeule Baden-Baden

Normalohne Wildfond

Schwer mit Wildfond

Wintertime is venison time. I love this wonderful meat, which inspires me again and again with its very own aroma.

Fortunately, I know a hunting man who provides me with the fresh venison in greater quantity, from the bones I then produce the Fond.

As accompaniment we have a lightly steamed Williams pear, it is simply seasoned with some water, sugar, cinnamon stick, carnation and white wine. At the end we fill them with cranberries or quince jam.
If you stew the leg of venison bonelessly, you have to tie it together with some kitchen cord, otherwise the good piece will fall apart, we don’t want that. Do not roast the leg to death under any circumstances, generally a core temperature of 62°C is recommended, I stew the deer at low temperature, so the slices remain wonderfully juicy. The dish can also be prepared very well from the back of the roe deer, the preparation is much faster.

The deer fond for the sauce can either be drawn by yourself or you can take a good quality out of the glass. The recipe for the deer stock is absolutely classic, and very lengthy, which is worthwhile for larger quantities that can then be easily frozen.

Ingredients for 6 persons

Preparation time with fond: 6 hours
Preparation time without fond: 3,5 hours
cooking time 2,5 hours

Ingredients for 1 L deer stock

  • 0.2 dl oil (sunflower or peanut oil)
  • 700 g pieces and bones of venison, chopped into thumb-sized pieces
  • 100 g veal feet, chopped into thumb-sized pieces
  • 200 g vegetables: carrots, onions (no leek, this is bitter when roasted)
  • 30 g tomato puree
  • 1,5 L water (2 to 3 times > 5 dl)
  • 600 ML white wine
  • 1 litre water
  • Spices:
    Salt, 1 bay leaf, 5 juniper berries, 5 peppercorns, herbal bouquets (each 1 sprig of sage, thyme and parsley stalks)


Mix the venison cuttings/bones and calf’s feet with the oil and place in a metal (coated or not) roasting pan. Place on a grid in the middle of the oven heated to 200 °Celsius. Roast for 1.5 to 2 hours, turning occasionally. Keep an eye on temperature, reduce heat as necessary. Add the vegetables and roast for 30 minutes. Add tomato puree and roast for 15 minutes.
Deglaze the roasted meat with 5 dl water.

Boil the water until everything starts to roast again (boil down to Glace) and refill with 5 dl water. Repeat process 1 to 2 times.
After boiling it for the second or third time, put it all in a suitable saucepan/marmite. Swivel frying utensils or frying pans out with a little water and add to the bones.
Add white wine and 10 dl water. Bring to the boil and skim and grease more often. Add the spices after one hour.

Let it simmer for 1 to 2 hours.

Pass through a coarse sieve, squeeze out lightly. Then strain through a strainer. Add salt as required.

Ingredients for the sauce:

  • 1 – 2 tablespoons orange juice
  • 1 tablespoon cassis liqueur
  • 3 tablespoons port wine
  • 120 ml strong red wine
  • 10 ground peppercorns
  • 2 tbsp. ice-cold butter
  • 2 tablespoons quince jam or cranberries
  • 250 ML venison stock


Boil orange juice, port and red wine in a saucepan and reduce to 1/3.
Pour in the wild stock and reduce again (at least to 2/3). Mount it on with the ice-cold butter and if necessary thicken with a little starch. Finish with quince jam or cranberries.

Ingredients for the venison leg:

For 6 Portions

  • 1 leg of venison of approx. 1,8 kg (without bones approx. 1,2 KG)
  • 10 slices of bacon
  • fresh black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
  • Sea salt, medium fine ground
  • kitchen yarn
  • 100 ML red wine
  • 100 ML port wine


First, we’ll take care of the bacon. Preheat the oven to 140°C, place the bacon slices on a baking tray with baking paper and weigh down with another baking tray. Fry the bacon until crispy, check the consistency from time to time.

Roast the leg of venison in a large pan with some Noisette butter from all sides and let it cool briefly. Then rub in the spices from all sides and put them into a large pan/roast. Pour remaining butter from the pan over the leg of venison.

Pour red wine and port wine into the preheated oven (120°C).
Stew for about 2 hours at the specified temperature until the core temperature is 75°C (meat thermometer). Personally, I prefer a core temperature of just below 75°C, but that’s a matter of taste.

Ingredientsfor the cranberry/quince pear:

  • 4 pears (I prefer Williams)
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 120 ml white wine (may be a bouquet wine)
  • 1 stick of cinnamon
  • 4 cloves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • Shell pieces of 1/2 untreated orange
  • 8 tbsp cranberries or quince jamZubereitung:

Peel the pears in such a way that the stem remains on the pear and immediately place them in cold lemon water.
Cut off the top third of the pear, put aside and hollow out the lower part (goes very well with a core casing remover). From the skins and the cut out parts of the pears, make a broth with the wine and the spices, simmer for about 15 minutes and sieve. Cook the pears together with the orange and lemon peels for about 5 minutes in the brew until al dente under boiling point. Take it out, fill it with cranberries and put on the matching lid.

Cut some nice slices of the leg, add the sauce and add the pear.


Sautéed chanterelles
Glazed carrots

über den Autor


Mathias Guthmann schreibt unter anderem für kulinarische Zeitschriften und den Schachsport. Seine Essays, Reiseberichte und Kurzgeschichten haben eine hohe Reichweite und werden in verschiedensten Fachmagazinen, auch international, publiziert. In der freien Wirtschaft berät der Autor eine Firma zu PR-Strategien.

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